Brooklyn Tropicali's Oaxaca Restaurant Guide

Street food

Lechoncito de Oro: This taco stand has some of my favorite tacos in the whole city. They make only two types of tacos: pierna (pork leg) and chicharron (pork skin). Both are incredibly delicious. Definitely try both. They open around 8pm and stay open very late - so it’s a great spot after a mezcal or two.

Traditional

Las Animas: This tlayuda spot is only open 3 nights a week - Thursday, Friday and Saturday for dinner. It's very simple - walk in the hallway passing the tlayuda grill and have a seat in the open courtyard. The tlayudas here are absolutely delicious - perfectly grilled, crispy and smoky. They also have a tlayuda enmolada - or a tlayuda with mole sauce instead of the normal asiento. The tlayudas are on the smaller size (or rather, they are about the appropriate size to eat in one sitting, but you will find them much larger just about everywhere else).

Mid-Range

Cabuche has it all: a lovely, simple atmosphere, great staff, and totally delicious food. Everything I’ve had here has been superb - and I’ve been here many, many times.The standouts here are their pozole (super super good), cochinita pibil tacos, and the enmoladas. Be sure to also order their agua of the day (flavored water) or maybe an artisanal beer or house-made pulque.

Boulenc is an amazing bakery and cafe. It’s a cute spot with rustic decor, and an indoor/outdoor space. Their sandwiches, salads and pizzas are all delicious. The pizzas are made in a wood-fired oven in the corner and are super good!

Itanoni has gained a little online buzz and for good reason. This restaurant’s claim to fame is the heirloom corn varieties they use to make each and every dish in the house. From the freshly made tortillas, to the tamales, to the traditional drinks made from corn, to the corn cake for dessert.Be sure to try the Tascalate (a non-alcoholic drink from Chiapas), tetelas, de eses, tamales, and pan de elote.

Chepiche Ever since I finally tried this adorable restaurant tucked in the quiet neighborhood of Xochimilco, it's become one of my favorite breakfast spots. The large leafy green courtyard has spread out tables and the decor is simple but cute. The dishes are beautifully plated and just as tasty. It's definitely worth the extra couple minute walk from centro.

Upscale

Criollo is a word used in Mexico to denote that some food ingredient is indigenous to the area and an heirloom variety. This name seems to reflect the restaurant’s connection to Oaxaca’s traditional cuisine. It's also one of my favorite restaurants in Oaxaca. The restaurant was created by 3 partners, one of which is chef, Enrique Olvera, of Pujol fame. That should be enough to convince you to head to Criollo asap. The location is tucked away at the edge of the centro, but finding it is well worth the work - it’s a gorgeous space with a lovely courtyard. And the food is wonderful - inventive and still respectful to its Oaxacan roots.

Coffee Shops

Muss Cafe This coffee shop and bar is right next to the Textile Museum (a recommended stop). Duck into this cute space before or after the museum for an espresso or a mezcal. This is also one of my favorite places to work from my laptop since the wifi is fast and the food and coffee are great. I love the sandwiches and salads here, and they also serve mezcal and cocktails if you are visiting later in the day. Muss is attached to the gorgeous Casa Antonieta boutique hotel, which is one of my favorite hotels in the city. This also means that you can sip on your coffee in the beautiful shared leafy courtyard, or in the stylish front cafe.

Mezcalerias and Bars

In Situ is a tiny but great Oaxaca mezcaleria with lots of varieties of mezcal to sample. Head upstairs, and ask for recommendations. They source their mezcal from a variety of nearby farms.

Mezcalerita is one of my favorite bars in Oaxaca. There are a couple small rooms in front, a courtyard inside, and a large roof terrace.The amazing thing about La Mezcalerita is the sheer size of their artisanal beer and mezcal menu. And not only are there a lot to choose from, but all are from Mexico - divided out in the menu by regions of the country. I couldn’t begin to guess how many there are to choose from, but it’s fun to try new varieties each time. They also serve pulque.